Saturday, April 5, 2014

Piped trench

I have made a winter coat for myself!  It's a dark charcoal woollen trench with the seaming and edging accented in pale grey/ivory/bone pleather piping.  The charcoal wool has a light gauzy check woven throughout; itself with a teensy houndstooth pattern woven in each window.  Clever.  Seriously, I often wonder how they make these fabrics.  Who would have conceived a thin houndstooth gauze, woven tartan-style into wool?


The pattern is McCalls 5525; my third version of this pattern.  This is such a great pattern; I completely love it!  It's so versatile.  Each of mine is quite different from the others; my first version is a smart but pretty-ish thing for winter and early spring, the second one I like for winter evening functions when I want to look glam.  I don't know what function this one will fill yet.  I would like it to be a just throw on over and go with anything and be instantly warm kind of a coat; but we'll see.  The piping is a bit distracting.  Hopefully I'll find it good for something  :)
I bought the fabric a few years ago from a shop called Wool on Collie, in Freo.  At the time it was mostly a knitting and crochet shop, with a very small token offering of fabrics.  I bought it on a mad whim.  The leatherette is from Spotlight; and was also bought on a mad whim.  Me and my bold plans.  I have to confess that the leatherette piping tested my patience and sorely depleted my fun-meter once or twice.  And I feel like unless you get up really close and have a good nosy squizz; you can't even tell that the damn stuff is leatherette.  Should I have gone for some easy-to-manipulate fabric?  Well, what is done is done; and I've learnt new things.  The plus is that there's quite a bit leftover, and I have some idiotic plans for it....  which may or may not eventuate ;)
The coat is fully lined in black acetate lining fabric from Fabulous Fabrics.  The pale grey, slightly streaky buttons from Fabulous Fabrics are a fortuitously perfect match to my leatherette.  A lucky find!
I'm pleased that my coat is finished, but I was feeling a little flat about it at first.  Y'know when you spend hours and hours meticulously fiddling with something and then aren't sure whether you even like the thing at the end?  Yeah.  Although I actually like it a bit more after seeing these "another person's view" pictures of it here.  It looks a little better here than I thought it did in the mirror.  I'll admit to almost hating it in the few days since I finished it, and only hauled myself into it to take pictures out of a sense of duty to my swap.
Maybe it's just that the forecast is 29C today and I feel like a right dork putting on a thick winter coat. 

Details:
Coat; McCalls 5525, charcoal wool with leatherette piping, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; Vogue 7303, ivory wool (old)
Camisole; Country Road
Shoes; Vitulli Moda; bought in Melbourne
To the bat cave!   Long coats look satisfyingly dramatic in a gust of wind... 

86 comments:

  1. Ohh, I love it! Put it in the closet for a while and then take it out and enjoy it!

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  2. It's a lovely trench coat and this style suits your tall and elegant figure so much. I hope you'll find a place for it in your winter wardrobe. Great job!

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  3. I absolutely love your coat!

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  4. As you say, a magic fabric and the finishing is perfection - and you look wonderful in a double breasted style. And the setting just adds to the whole look.

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  5. What a beautiful coat and the piping looks very chic. It looks wonderful on. Hope you grow to love it, it is gorgeous.

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  6. Wow, that is just stunning. It is definitely a coat to throw over something else every day in Winter!!

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  7. So pretty! Your first version had already inspired me to make my own, so I sew a similar Version in a grey check of rayon two years ago!

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    1. thank you PP! I am so pleased to hear that you liked that one :)

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  8. There are never enough trench coats in a girl's wardrobe! I agree with you about the fabric: so clever. I also like the Ivory version of the coat - very elegant and stylish :)

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  9. Looks very swish from here! Hopefully you'll come to love it after a little cellaring. Rachel ☺

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  10. Great looking coat! Love, love the piping detailing.

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  11. You have really surpassed yourself this time Carolyn. This is Absolutely Fabulous - to quote a TV show. You really make me want to up my game. I love it. If it's too hot to wear in Perth the weather is cooler here in Hampshire UK!! :)

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  12. OMG ! It's beautifull ! I love the fabric !

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  13. Beautiful. Pop it in the wardrobe for a bit and by the time our weather is cold enough for you to need it, you will love it!

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  14. This is a real winner here! The fabric, piping, construction, everything came together so well! I love it! So classy and timeless... you're gonna be a real stunner this winter!

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  15. I've made this pattern too and it is a huge amount of work, not to mention all your leatherette piping! It looks gorgeous, so do hope you come to love it with time. Maybe once the weather gets cooler, as today was not a coat day, that's for sure.

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  16. Crazy awesome!!!!! OMG all that piping!

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  17. Oh it looks quite splendid! Very dramatic too. I think you'll get a lot of wear out of it in a Perth winter... but I understand the "dork putting on winter coat in 29 degrees" as it was 31 here today and we went to the beach for hours of first day of school holiday fun.. but defo not weather for coats..even splendid ones!

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  18. oooh this looks fabulous! that fabric is so cool! i know that feeling of hating the thing you've spent so much time on--been there! hopefully you come to love it!

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  19. That coat is fantastic! I recently sourced out that OOP pattern after stumbling on your first version. Look like a challenge for me, but a totally doable one!

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  20. Wow! I love everything about your coat.

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  21. I think your coat is lovely. That really is a great pattern - so versatile! I was sort of wondering about leather piping. I'm not generally a big fan of piping or even top stitching in a contrasting colour. But the lines of that coat are so good that they deserve a bit of extra emphasis! Look forward to your next madcap adventure with piping!

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  22. I get excited when I see you have put up a new post! ah, I think, there is going to be something of substance to read here. And you never disappoint. Beautiful coat, I so enjoy your sewing adventures. You are an accomplished seamstress, and you know your own sense of style well. Which means the results are stunning and impressive. well done, enjoy your coat.

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  23. Gorgeous coat, Carolyn!! That fabric is fascinating - it's like you could get lost in it (checks within checks within checks... oh my!) And the piping really helps show off the beautiful lines of this coat. I would definitely pull this out as an 'everyday' coat - it's too good to shove away in the back of a closet.

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  24. Wow, I love it! But I totally get this feeling. There's lots of times I have to bury something in the back of my closet to forget what a pain it was to sew or that slight imperfection that's bothering me that nobody else will ever notice. You won't feel like a dork when the weather turns cold and you are able to wear your coat lots because you made it early.

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  25. Your coat is amazing, just like you!

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  26. I'm sure you'll love it once the memory of the piping settles down a bit. It's really fabulous!! The fabric is amazing, as is that pattern. I've actually had that pattern for years and it's always been toward the top of my to-sew list, but is yet to be made. I hope it still looks classic and beautiful when I finally get around to it!

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  27. I understand those feelings - sometimes after a big project you are just so sick of it you don't even want to look at it anymore. BUT from my vantage point it is gorgeous!! You will be so glad to have this coat to wear this winter. And kudos for finishing it before you even need it -- I'm always working a little behind.

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  28. This is gorgeous! Love all the details about it, especially the piping :-)

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  29. That coat is beautiful. I admire your patience with all that piping work you put into it.

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  30. Carolyn! That is beautiful! What a gorgeous trench!

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  31. Certainly, that coat looks magical when it is playing with the wind. Love the addition of the white pipe, which is a great touch! I'm in love with your new coat, dear Carolyn.

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  32. looks pretty fabulous to me! love the piping!

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  33. I have definitely felt that "don't even really like it" feeling at the end if a challenging project. Time is a great healer usually so I would definitely hang it in the wardrobe for a few weeks until said feeling subsides. I really like the pale grey piping and I think it makes the coat. I am loving all things leather this season.

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  34. Wonderful coat! I have seen that fabric before and will now be wracking my brain to figure out where. Spent last August in Fremantle - (is Freo the same place?) and may have glimpsed it there.

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    1. Beryl; yes, maybe you did! Freo = Fremantle :)

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  35. Fabulous - don't you just love how a different fabric can make the same pattern feel brand new? Thanks for sharing your experiences working with the pleather piping. Was considering using it princess seams of a dress - might give it a miss now!! Cheers, Karen

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  36. Holy heck, Carolyn. This is freaking rad! That piping takes it from cool coat to fierce!!! :D

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  37. Gorgeous!!! I adore this full length sleeve version of the beloved pattern. Plus, your styling of the coat is very chic. Well done, yet once again!

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  38. That coat is gorgeous. I generally feel that flat feeling at the end of most projects. I find that I am focussed too much on the things that have gone wrong but once I have some time or another project started, I am happy again with the look of a garment.

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  39. Carolyn, this is brilliant! You will love it this winter when you need a fabulous, warm coat. If not, you can mail it to me - ;) !

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  40. What a great coat. Very stylish and professional.

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  41. That is one knock-out coat! Not to argue with you, but I do not find the piping distracting at all. Rather, it is quite a fabulous detail. Enjoy your beautiful new coat.

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  42. That is gorgeous, Carolyn. The fabric is interesting, but subtle enough to work as a neutral. The piping is wonderful.

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  43. Amazing coat and looks stunning on you!

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  44. Such amazing fabric and love it with the pleather detailing. You just need the weather to cool down a bit and this coat will come into it's own!

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  45. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this coat. And your workmanship is amazing! You will love wearing it after you take a little vacay from looking at it. ;-) Great job!!

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  46. It's fab, but I absolutely understand the lack of love after a major project especially if certain parts have been vexing! Just been there myself actually! But it's classic and amazingly made and with a little rest out of sight for a while I'm sure you'll love it when the cool weather arrives (and it will be perfect for when you next pop over here to Melbourne on your next shopping trip!).

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  47. This coat is beautiful! The piping makes the right WOW effect! Love it!

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  48. You've done such a stellar job, and I'm contemplating whether or not I have the patience to have a crack at the leatherette piping now...probably not, but it wouldn't have occurred to me if you hadn't done it first.

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  49. Your coat looks great - and I am sure you will appreciate it when your temperatures start to fall.

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  50. It's just stunning. That piping may have killed the fun of the process, but it elevates the coat to a whole new level! Gorgeous :)

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  51. Wow!!! Everything about it is perfect and it looks very nice on you!!!!

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  52. that is gorgeous! I'm sure that piping was quite a painful, 00 on the fun meter. But, it totally puts the coat on another level.
    i love the plaids, great job matching.

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  53. Sometimes there is a buzz kill after lots of work, but I think it's beautiful and useful :) It'll be a long-time favorite I think.

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  54. What an unusual and interesting fabric, and the piping looks sharp. This coat looks great on you.

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  55. Loving this! It looks marvelous on you! Great job!

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  56. I think it's a lovely coat and I'm sure you will enjoy it after a while. You know, when the immediate memory of fiddling with all that piping has faded a bit. I think this just happens when a garment has taken an usually large amount of time and energy. In that case, anything less than absolute perfection initially disappoints.

    This coat is definitely a bit more sporty than your other versions of this pattern, which should help make it a wardrobe staple. Although of course, that piping is rather eye-catching. I quite like the longer length as well.

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  57. Love it! love the details. Perfect.I would love to make a trench coat but never have enough patience.

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  58. You can really see the work that has gone into it! Perfect matching down the back. I love it. Hope by putting it away for a couple of months in anticipation of some cold weather you will appreciate it a bit more by then.

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  59. It is beautiful. It is really something to be proud of!

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  60. So very cute and stylish - what a wonderful garment!

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  61. Totally gorgeous work. Coats are so great to do this type of piping on.

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  62. oh a few minutes with that piping and I would have thrown it overboard, but result is lovely. and you know I love a nicely matched plaid so fantastic coat.

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  63. Holy smoke! That is one heck of a gorgeous coat! Now THAT should be on the cover of the pattern.

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  64. It turned out gorgeous! I love all that piping, well done Carolyn :-)

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  65. You did a brilliant job on this coat, your pattern lined up perfectly and the leather piping is a gorgeous detail.

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  66. You do wonders with every pattern that comes to your hands! I love this version! And it must have been really tricky to sew that pleader piping!!

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  67. This is a gorgeous make! It's so smart I just can't tell you. I understand the experience you had, though. Several years ago I made a coat that I was so excited for and when it was finished didn't know if I even liked it. I was so disappointed at first. Gradually, it grew on me and has become one of my favourite pieces. Unfortunately, it's now starting to show its age and wear and may need to be retired soon (I wear it a lot this time of year, it's perfect for the protracted transition from winter to spring we typically have in my part of Canada).

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  68. Beautiful coat! Stunning. I think it is good to see pictures of something on before deciding if it is a winner or not... This coat is a winner for certain!

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  69. It looks amazing. I am sewing some leather at the moment, and am finding it seriously depleting to my mojo. Maybe the leatherette has sucked the happiness out of the coat and it needs a rest somewhere dark to recover? I love the strong contrast of the piping and the beautiful textural appearance of the fabric, a very smart coat.

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  70. Amazing coat. Somehow I am reminded of Dianna Rigg in the Avengers (when not wearing skintight leather, she wore some very snappy coats and suits).

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  71. Stunning coat! And I agree with you about fabrics. When I see something truly original, I wonder what it could possibly have been conceived for, and then I wonder if doing something different with it than what it was originally intended for is somehow "wrong". You certainly made very good use of your beautiful gauzy checked wool!

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  72. It's a gorgeously stylish looking coat. I'm in awe of your piping, which highlights all the lines so beautifully. Put it away for a few weeks and you will love it come winter!

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  73. I've found that when I work *forever* on a difficult project, I hate it. If I put it away for a while I can see the garment past the drudgery.

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  74. Gorgeous coat, I love the piping detail, and the fabric is just lovely! You're making me really glad I have this pattern in my stash... now to actually make the thing haha ^__^

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