Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Double welt pocket with looped button closure

I wrote this tute just before Christmas then completely forgot about it ...! anyhow 

This is a pocket often used as the back pocket on mens' trousers although of course you can add one to whatever garment you wish... in this case I have used for the breast pocket on a mens' tailored shirt.

Measure and mark the position of the welt pocket.  My welt pocket measures 13cm x 1.5 cm  (5 1/8" x 5/8").  Cut two strips of fabric equal in length to the length of the welt pocket plus two seam allowances, and equal in width to twice the height of the double welt; in this case my strips measure 15cm x 3cm.  Also cut a strip of fabric on the bias for the loop closure.  
Stitch the bias strip, and cut the stitching threads leaving a long length, at lease as long as the bias strip itself.  Thread the long end through a needle, and with blunt end leading, pass it through inside the strip.  Turn the strip right side out.
Press the welt strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and place pins in each to mark the length and width of each welt.  In this case, a length of 13cm and a width of 7.5mm.
With the pressed folds of the welt strips facing out and the open raw edges towards the middle; put these pins in exactly the same pinholes as those previously made to mark the welt position.  Arrange the welts to lie smooth, flat and straight.
Stitch the long edges of the welt, in an exactly 13cm long line, positioned exactly 7.5mm in from the folded (outer) edge of the welt.  Note; the folded edge is the visible and therefore the important one here; the accuracy and precision of your stitching MUST be relative to that outer edge).
Fold to snip into the centre of the welt. and cut to about 1cm in from the start and finish of the stitching. From this point, snip outwards in an inverted arrow shape into the very corners of the welt.
Turn welts to the inside and pin the loop closure in position to the seam allowance of the upper welt, at the centrepoint.  Stitch.
Pin the pocket piece to the lower welt seam allowance, and stitch exactly over the previous stitching.  Press down.
Stitch a button through both thickness of fabric; the shirt layer and the pocket layer, for stability, using the loop closure to determine the position of the button.
Fold up the pocket piece and pin to the seam allowance of the upper welt.  Stitch exactly over the previous stitching and press.
Complete the box of stitching around the welt by catching down the little triangles at the outer edges.  Continue stitching down the sides seams of the pocket.
Finish raw edges by overlocking or zig-zagging.  You can also finish by binding with bias binding; I tried doing this for the pocket of one shirt, the purple pin-stripe pictured below.  It looks real nice but it made the pocket feel kinda bulky and stiff.  I would probably  just stick with the overlocker in future.

26 comments:

  1. A very helpful, clear tutorial. Thanks so much!

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  2. Well done! Thanks for sharing! I know doing tutorials really slow down the 'sewing', and I appreciate that you've done this for us!

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  3. Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing it from me too, as Sue said, I know it takes ages to do tutorials.

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  4. What a beautifully clear tutorial! I will remember it for the future.

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  5. I did this years ago but if I had to do it today I would need to find a tutorial to get the old brain cogs turning again!
    Thanks Carolyn - always clear instructions, tips and photos.

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  6. Oh so helpful thank you Caroline. I am still excited about adding a bit of binding to something so I am a long way off this yet! Thanks for checking out my blog. Jo x

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  7. Such a clear, well thought out tutorial, thank you!

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  8. Oooh. Mine never came out this neat! Love your tutorial! Thanks for sharing!

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  9. Oh welts! How you scare me! But you will be mine this year! Especially with a fab tute like this! Thanks so much! :)

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  10. I haven't made welt pockets before but I've been seriously thinking about it recently. Thanks for the tute - it will be really helpful when I eventually decide to get around to it. :)

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  11. Great tutorial!! I've linked to it over at Craft Gossip:
    http://sewing.craftgossip.com/tutorial-double-welt-pocket-with-a-button-loop-closure/2014/01/14/
    --Anne

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  12. Must admit I didn't even attempt to follow all this since I'm now sewing one at this point. I do love this crisp detail, though. I don't suppose you're on Pinterest? If not, suggest you leave it alone if only for the sake of your sewing. Take up smoking crack instead. I'm definitely going to head for Pinterest-detox...sometime. And it's not like it's all that informative: just a bunch of pictures. I find myself working quite hard to get the story that goes along with the picture. Great for advertisers, though. I'm just saying.

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  13. I really appreciate your wonderful tutorials, one day I will make a shirt for DH and this is where I will be headed to get all the great tips and tricks and help along the way.

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  14. Perfect timing Carolyn, thank you so much! I have cut out pants for DH, and he tells me he would like welt pockets instead of patch pockets that are with the pattern - I check my email and here is your tutorial! You are a life saver!

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  15. Thank you for the tutorial, that is one gorgeous pocket.

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  16. I tried your tutorial and came out the other end with a double-welt pocket. Woohoo! Thank you so much.

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  17. Great tutorial - thanks for taking the time to write it. I am making some shorts soon and will give this a whirl! I have done double welts before, but always nice to refine my technique :) I also love the loop.

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  18. I'm so happy I have found your blog, I have been looking through your site since yesterday and it's just wonderful, thank you so much it's so very good of you, I'm looking forward to go through some more tutorials I also learned about the fabric shop and hence spent to much but purchased some lovely linen

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  19. PS: I wrote a small post about the pocket I made, with a link to you. Just thought I should let you know. Thanks again, Carolyn!

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  20. That is such a nice detail - thanks for sharing! :)

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  21. Very nice tutorial!! Bookmarked it, as I have yet to find instructions that allow me to actually follow and sew a welt pocket!

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  22. :) Thanks for the tutorial! I'm sewing my very first men's shirt at the moment, and I think for now I'll stick to a patch pocket, but there's always room for upgrading! :)

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  23. I love your tutorials - this is brilliant!

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  24. Selam! Sizin bloğunuzu uzun süredir takip ediyorum ve diktiklerinizi çok beğeniyorum.Ellerinize sağlık...:)

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