Monday, November 5, 2012

Seafoam and sand set


Remember my self-drafted bra?  Well this was bound to happen.  Once I had started producing some bras with nice, properly finished interiors; the days of that far-from-perfect bra were numbered.  When I learnt how things were supposed to be done, thanks to KwikSew 3300; those cobbled-together insides became painful to my eyes...
So, ta da!  I've made a new(ish) set.  
Y'know what?  I absolutely LOVE the fact that the two undies both match the bra, but are not identical to each other!  You can tell that they all go together, like one happy family; but each has its own personality.  Like; they are sisters, but not twins.
Will definitely do this again  :)
I took apart the old bra, and re-used as much of the lace as I could, as well as the half-sized padded bra cups and the hook and eye closure.  I bought new underwires since the previous ones were too short for this pattern.   
For the supplementary fabric I used some lovely soft sand-coloured bamboo jersey leftover from my scrumpled leggings, and had just enough to cut out another pair of undies, using McCalls 2772.  I added little scraps of the lace in at the sides of the new knickers before sewing on the elastic; to tie them in with the rest of the set.
Both the fabrics are originally from Fabulous Fabrics.
Y'all know how I like complete and matching sets in my lingerie drawer ....   hey, we all have our quirks right?  Mine is to have matching lingerie sets; and the two matching knickers per bra combo is pretty much mandatory to my continued sense of balance and order in the world.  I'm quite particular in that way :)
Now this set matches my criteria.  
And it is finished nicely.  
I am at peace.

the nitty gritty...
For the first time I made view A of KwikSew 3300 (my review of this pattern here), with the lace upper cup and a stretch knit lower cup, and once again altered the pattern slightly to allow me to sandwich the padded half-cups inside the lower cup pieces.  I used a bit of skinny ribbon for the stabiliser on the lace upper cup.  It has no give, and the piece doesn't fit the top of the bra exactly; so I found it necessary to first baste this, easing the lace to fit, then to stitch over my basting stitches.
The underwire casing was made from ice-blue shot cotton, leftover from this top.
The jersey lining of the lower cup "looks" funny; a bit bobbly and boinging out like a trampoline over the concave inside of the moulded cup, but obviously the soft stretch fabric moulds to your body when you are wearing it.  I can't think of any way to force it to follow the curve; short of gluing it or quilting it down to the cup.  And there's no way I'm going to go to those lengths when it actually fits and feels fine when it's on!

Now for the Tanga lace panties; although they look virtually identical to how they did previously...well, I hope they do!... these too have been taken apart and altered...
Why?
This is kinda hard for me, since I absolutely hate to bag a pattern, particularly an independent little pattern from someone kind enough to put a free downloadable pattern up on the internet, from the goodness of their heart, for everybody to enjoy.  Such a generous gesture does not deserve a bagging.  But the pattern, as it was, did not totally work for me.... why? because the crotch has a front-to-back central seam, combined with NO elasticated leghole edges to help keep the crotch edges... er, out, and apart from each other.  It doesn't take much imagination to extrapolate; and see that that makes for an enormously uncomfortable pair of knickers, that necessitates one having to snatch plenty of inconspicuous moments in one's day to hoink that wretched crotch seam out from where it has no business being.  The liner is one-piece, but is too flimsy to make a heck of a lot of difference, unfortunately.
Moral of the story; beware of knickers with a central crotch seam.
So I removed the old crotch and constructed a new one.  I used the one-piece liner pattern piece to cut a new knit liner, and also for a new, stretch elastic crotch.  I salvaged some more of the decorative stretch lace border from the old bra, cut two pieces to fit the length of the inside lace edge on the crotch which translates to about 1cm short of the outer edge measurement and sewed it along, stretching it along the outer edge to fit, gathering the side edges in a touch.
I didn't have enough of the original lace to cut a new crotch piece or I would have used it!  I had to improvise, using white stretch lace with a over-layer of pale blue poly chiffon; the latter cut a bit bigger all round and sewn on loosely to account for the fact that it does not have stretch in itself.  I think it blends in ok.  Would you even notice that the fabric was different without this close-up shot?
And y'know what?
Success!!
Using the liner piece to cut a one-piece crotch, and sewing border strips of stretch lace on at the sides to pull them in a bit.... it's a very tiny adjustment to the ultra-cute lace Tanga knicker pattern, but one that renders them a heck of a lot more comfortable imo.  In future versions I will definitely be doing this again!  :)

35 comments:

  1. Such pretty under garments, and an excellent fix on the lace shorties, they sound much more comfortable now!

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  2. I wear Bonds cheeky cut panties and they have that same stupid front to back seam. I cut a patterm off them and cut it on a fold. Must have been designed by a man! I really like your collection. I want to make bras but I can't find a pattern that doesn't have a wide bridge like this one. One day ...

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  3. Lovely undergarments and excellent solution for the lace shorties, thank you for sharing.

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  4. Very pretty "family" of undies. Kudos for averting a highly uncomfortable situation with the lace shorts.

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  5. Very pretty "family" of undies. Kudos for averting a highly uncomfortable situation with the lace shorts.

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  6. Very pretty "family" of undies. Kudos for averting a highly uncomfortable situation with the lace shorts.

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  7. they look SO ready to wear!
    especially love that last shot of them hanging on hooks!

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  8. How pretty your lingerie turned out! I love the lace! I always find it so hard to back to a project to change it but oh so rewarding when it works out! Central crotch issues = no fun!

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  9. These sets just get better and better!

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  10. Carolyn, you have the ability to get something across of a sensitive nature in the most hilarious way! I laughed at the visuals you were creating in my mind! By the way, so good of you to share your not so successful projects with us - it makes me realise that you also are on a journey to perfecting your sewing skills, and don't get bogged down in your "failures", and keep trying to improve. Inspiring!!

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  11. A central crotch seam would annoy me too. Nice fix. These sets are getting better all the time! Your finish is impeccable. Do you buy lingerie at all anymore?

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  12. Your undies are so cute!! You inspired me! Next year I´m going to sew my very first knickers...I hope that... ;-)

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  13. What a great set of undies! And a great fix for the shorts - why do they put that seam there? The three part set is a great idea too.

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  14. I love what You do, everything looks so great. All thet things You've made.

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  15. I cannot conceive of a pair of panties with a front to back seam. It's like cheap panty hose here in Britain. I'm not fussed whether my underwear is coordinated or not, but it must be comfortable and it has to stay up. Some of the 'invisible' underwear here gradually creeps down and provides another awkward thing to inobtrusively correct. For years I wore L'Eggs brand pantyhose with a gusset and no underwear. I'm thinking about reverting to my old habits, given I'm not likely to sew panties.

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  16. Undies have to be comfortable and you've worked this out so elegantly.
    The boinging description was a real scream:D

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  17. My major concern with your 'underthings' is that someone is going to 'knick' them off the clothes line one day - too gorgeous!

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  18. Carolyn, these are more beautiful than what you can find in the shops! Stunning.

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  19. What a gorgeous lingerie set! It's good that you were able to make them more comfortable with a small adjustment. IMO there's nothing worse than pulling at your knickers all day :)

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  20. oh dear looks like you caught the bug too - these look great - I have done the same and used some of the parts of an old unworn bra to make a new one, and take scraps of lace to make almost matching panties.

    great job

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  21. Great timing. I recently bought a book called Bare Essentials from Amazon with a view to making my own undies but the pattern provided has a centre seam. Mmm. So I bought something similar from Target to give it a go. My goodness. You're description of the problem is far more lady like than I would have phrased it! Thanks for the fix. Will apply it to the pattern in the book. Thanks Carolyn:)

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  22. I had to laugh at your knicker fit issues and I totally agree with the sentiment that comfort and good looks have to go hand in hand where underwear is concerned. I would not sacrifice one for the other anymore...maybe when I was young and silly!

    It is a fantastic set. I have ordered a bra pattern but am worried it may have got lost in the mail :(

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  23. Thank you for the Tanga recommendations! I made two pairs, but rarely wear them because of the exact issue you described. I had given up on this pattern, but maybe I'll go back and rework those two pairs to make them more wearable--because they are so darn cute...

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  24. Love how sweet and pretty they are. Great work

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  25. I applaud your grace and delicacy discussing the very intimate issue of crotch seams! Your underwear is lovely, too. I am one of those dreadful people who has never owned a pair of matching undies in her life! I KNOW!

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  26. I totally get you on the underwear matching your bra thing--I try to do this as much as possible, which seems to be rather difficult between my bra size and my lack of any desire whatsoever to wear thongs! You're really making me want to try sewing some underthings, even though the bra seam showing under my t-shirts thing still scares me a bit...

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  27. Great job on these! Did you change the commenting style on your blog? Feels different. Also, I know what you mean about that center seam. It's a bad idea if you're a frequent cyclist. >_o

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  28. Why have I missed this for two whole days is beyond me! I had a good laugh with your explanations about the knickers! Have to say they set looks wonderful. I´ve been looking for a nice old bra of mine to deconstruct, but none of them has the two piece cup I want so I´ll have to ask Santa for the pattern you are using for yours.
    Coral+sand+white= really stylish!

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  29. They are gorgeous and no one will have any like them. The big question is....are the wedgie free? I can't seem to get away from wedgies on store purchased undies...maybe I need to learn to make my own!

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  30. SO very pretty! I can imagine that it's great fun choosing the lace and bits to go together. Lovely, lovey undies!

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  31. Such a pretty little set! And I'm lmao reading your review of the tanga pattern. Great adjustmet, btw!

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  32. Speaking of you inspiring me, I'm sooo determined to get good at making my own underwear sets too. Especially undies without a central seam in the crotch!
    They look fantastic! And sound comfy... now :-D

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