Flicking through the magazine; the military style of this jacket with the double breasted front, the rows of buttons, the high collar and the little buttoned-down belt really caught my eye, but not until looking at the fine print did I notice the cool knitted wristbands that are attached to the sleeve lining inside the sleeves ... sold!! I immediately knew this was The One. I totally love it; even though there is hardly any winter left here... shhh. I should be able to squeeze in a few more wears at least, and I've always found it fab to have something sorta new-ish in the wardrobe for next year, the next time winter starts to creep up and you're not quite ready :)
Even better, I made the jacket using all leftover fabrics and yarns from my stash; small-ish quantities that were too titchy tiny for any one thing alone, but still too much and too good quality to even dream of ditching. I've noticed a few smartly tailored jackets in Vogue magazine lately, made from combinations of very different materials and the idea of following suit really appealed to me.
Above: both these ads taken from Vogue Australia. At left; Burberry Prorsum, at right; JBrand.
I used a browny-grey polyurethane laminate, originally from Fabulous Fabrics and leftover from this skirt, and a grey wool, originally from Spotlight and leftover from this coat. Whoar, it felt gooood to use up that fabric!! The knitted wristwarmers are knitted from Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed in colour Peppercorn, the leftover yarn from this cardigan. I didn't have quite enough of the wool to knit the full length required, but I think they turned out quite long enough anyway.
I cut the back, sides and fronts of the jacket from the PU laminate: and the centre fronts, shoulders, collar, sleeves and the belt from the wool fabric. Even though I did not have enough of either fabric to cut the whole jacket, I did have enough of both together to make the jacket 15cm longer than stipulated in the pattern, which suited me to a T. I prefer a hip-length to a cropped jacket, particularly when in a very fitted style like this. I left off the gathered peplum, and instead cut the back piece as one long piece.
The pattern directs for two short belts to be sewn in with the side/back seams; instead I made mine as one completely separate longer belt. It still buttons onto the lower two front buttons, just like in the pattern. I like the way the belt pulls in the back of the jacket, and gives me more of a "shape". I think it might have looked a little boxy for my tastes otherwise.
I topstitched onto the wool portion of the jacket, but avoided any topstitching on the PU laminate; because I know from brief experiments when making my skirt from this fabric that topstitching looks tres hidous on this stuff.
The collar is faced with a lightweight elephant-grey cotton rather than with self-fabric; this is because that wool is thick! It was pretty hard to get all those double thickness shoulder and collar seams all sitting down on the inside nice and flat as it was, without the extra bulk of a woollen facing... for that reason I did not button the collar ends back on themselves as suggested in the pattern because the grey cotton facing fabric would have showed. Instead my collar just crosses and buttons right end over the left.
The jacket is lined completely with a coffee-coloured polyacetate lining, from Fabulous Fabrics. This, along with the buttons, also from Fabulous Fabrics, are the only things I had to buy!
Jacket; Burdastyle magazine 09/2008, 104, with minor modifications; made of wool, PU laminate, Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed
Jeans; Burda 7863, khaki stretch gabardine, details and my review of this pattern here, and see these jeans styled in 6 different ways here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti from Zomp shoes
Masculine, lady-like or sporty? This jacket fulfils all three requirements! The front in severe military style, the back with a feminine peplum, and the sleeves with long, hand-knitted cuffs that are attached to the lining.
European 36 to 44, I made the size 38.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
I made mine 15cm longer; but otherwise yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They're ok. Burdastyle are well known for their challenging pattern instructions! The instruction to sew the facing pieces together seems to be missing so if you have not made a lined jacket before you might get pretty confused in this section.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I just love the style! Very interesting and quite unique. I was particularly drawn to the knitted wrist-warmers feature; I just love combining different bits and bobs together in one garment like this!!
I used a combination of several fabrics; a PU-laminate and a charcoal wool for the jacket pieces, and Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed for the wristwarmers.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My jacket is 15cm longer than stipulated, and I left off the gathered peplum and instead cut the back as one piece, as per jacket 105. I made the belt as one long and completely separate belt, that encircles my waist so it nips in the back of the jacket, and gives me more shape. My wool fabric used for the collar is very thick, so I faced the collar with a lightweight cotton. For this reason I did not fold back the collar ends to button on themselves, but instead laid them over each other, so the ends button onto each other.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this again! and I definitely recommend this interesting and fashion forward pattern to others!
Well, I'm completely chuffed with my new jacket! I really love trench coats and military style jackets, which is why I fell for this one; a nice combination of the two styles. The double breasted front and high stand-up collar look smart and will be nice and cosy on a cold day. I really love the belt, to nip in the waist. I particularly adore the knitted wristwarmers. All round a unique and very cool little jacket, and a really good choice for a cold weather jacket.