Wednesday, August 29, 2012

With Military Precision

My most recent creation: a jacket! made using pattern 104 from the Burdastyle magazine 09/2008 from the Pattern Pyramid giveaway.  Uber cool, yes?  I think so.
Flicking through the magazine; the military style of this jacket with the double breasted front, the rows of buttons, the high collar and the little buttoned-down belt really caught my eye, but not until looking at the fine print did I notice the cool knitted wristbands that are attached to the sleeve lining inside the sleeves ...  sold!!  I immediately knew this was The One.  I totally love it; even though there is hardly any winter left here... shhh.  I should be able to squeeze in a few more wears at least, and I've always found it fab to have something sorta new-ish in the wardrobe for next year, the next time winter starts to creep up and you're not quite ready  :)
Even better, I made the jacket using all leftover fabrics and yarns from my stash; small-ish quantities that were too titchy tiny for any one thing alone, but still too much and too good quality to even dream of ditching.  I've noticed a few smartly tailored jackets in Vogue magazine lately, made from combinations of very different materials and the idea of following suit really appealed to me.
Above: both these ads taken from Vogue Australia.  At left; Burberry Prorsum, at right; JBrand. 

I used a browny-grey polyurethane laminate, originally from Fabulous Fabrics and leftover from this skirt, and a grey wool, originally from Spotlight and leftover from this coat.  Whoar, it felt gooood to use up that fabric!!  The knitted wristwarmers are knitted from Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed in colour Peppercorn, the leftover yarn from this cardigan.  I didn't have quite enough of the wool to knit the full length required, but I think they turned out quite long enough anyway.
I cut the back, sides and fronts of the jacket from the PU laminate: and the centre fronts, shoulders, collar, sleeves and the belt from the wool fabric.  Even though I did not have enough of either fabric to cut the whole jacket, I did have enough of both together to make the jacket 15cm longer than stipulated in the pattern, which suited me to a T.  I prefer a hip-length to a cropped jacket, particularly when in a very fitted style like this.  I left off the gathered peplum, and instead cut the back piece as one long piece.
The pattern directs for two short belts to be sewn in with the side/back seams; instead I made mine as one completely separate longer belt.  It still buttons onto the lower two front buttons, just like in the pattern.  I like the way the belt pulls in the back of the jacket, and gives me more of a "shape".  I think it might have looked a little boxy for my tastes otherwise.
I topstitched onto the wool portion of the jacket, but avoided any topstitching on the PU laminate; because I know from brief experiments when making my skirt from this fabric that topstitching looks tres hidous on this stuff.
The collar is faced with a lightweight elephant-grey cotton rather than with self-fabric; this is because that wool is thick!  It was pretty hard to get all those double thickness shoulder and collar seams all sitting down on the inside nice and flat as it was, without the extra bulk of a woollen facing... for that reason I did not button the collar ends back on themselves as suggested in the pattern because the grey cotton facing fabric would have showed.  Instead my collar just crosses and buttons right end over the left.
The jacket is lined completely with a coffee-coloured polyacetate lining, from Fabulous Fabrics.  This, along with the buttons, also from Fabulous Fabrics, are the only things I had to buy!

Details:
Jacket; Burdastyle magazine 09/2008, 104, with minor modifications; made of wool, PU laminate, Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed
Jeans; Burda 7863, khaki stretch gabardine, details and my review of this pattern here, and see these jeans styled in 6 different ways here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti from Zomp shoes

Pattern Description:
Masculine, lady-like or sporty?  This jacket fulfils all three requirements!  The front in severe military style, the back with a feminine peplum, and the sleeves with long, hand-knitted cuffs that are attached to the lining.
Pattern Sizing:
European 36 to 44,  I made the size 38.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
I made mine 15cm longer; but otherwise yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They're ok.  Burdastyle are well known for their challenging pattern instructions!  The instruction to sew the facing pieces together seems to be missing so if you have not made a lined jacket before you might get pretty confused in this section.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I just love the style!  Very interesting and quite unique.  I was particularly drawn to the knitted wrist-warmers feature; I just love combining different bits and bobs together in one garment like this!!
Fabric Used:
I used a combination of several fabrics; a PU-laminate and a charcoal wool for the jacket pieces, and Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed for the wristwarmers.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
My jacket is 15cm longer than stipulated, and I left off the gathered peplum and instead cut the back as one piece, as per jacket 105.  I made the belt as one long and completely separate belt, that encircles my waist so it nips in the back of the jacket, and gives me more shape.  My wool fabric used for the collar is very thick, so I faced the collar with a lightweight cotton.  For this reason I did not fold back the collar ends to button on themselves, but instead laid them over each other, so the ends button onto each other.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this again! and I definitely recommend this interesting and fashion forward pattern to others!
Conclusion:
Well, I'm completely chuffed with my new jacket!  I really love trench coats and military style jackets, which is why I fell for this one; a nice combination of the two styles.  The double breasted front and high stand-up collar look smart and will be nice and cosy on a cold day.  I really love the belt, to nip in the waist.  I particularly adore the knitted wristwarmers.  All round a unique and very cool little jacket, and a really good choice for a cold weather jacket.

66 comments:

  1. Wow - absolutley fantastic! Love it. The knitted wrist bands give it a layered look. Very cool.

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  2. This is so cool, an item I would love to wear all autumn long. You did a very smart job combining the different fabrics and the knitted wrist bands. Totally fantastic jacket!

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  3. I love this - it has a bit of a steam punk vibe to it.

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  4. I'm a huge fan of militaristic tendencies in ever-day wear, and this has got me nodding my head in approval. I love the mitchy-matchy different fabrics you've got going on - I can only imagine the satisfaction of using up those bits left over but still too good to turf! It looks great on too - you've hit the trifecta with this :)

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  5. With hand-knitted cuffs?! Wow! That is an amazing garment and what a stashbuster too!

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  6. So awesome - I love this!! I would never have guessed that the knit wrist warmers were part of the jacket. I am totally blown away.

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  7. Wow. Love the fact that you combined all the different fabrics and yarn from your stash. It fits you like a dream.

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  8. Jacket looks great on you. I love the different textures

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  9. Brilliant! beautiful! it looks like something from Cue. i would totally buy this. i love the cuffs. :)

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  10. Fab jacket - it would be so cosy to wear with those knitted cuffs! Well-done (I know I am not ready to try something like this yet). :)

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  11. I'm already searching through my old Burda's - I'm pretty sure I have this. The knitted sleeve ends are the best part for me - I always hate the way cold air can creep inside your sleeves on a cold day! gorgeous

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  12. Wow a jacket pattern that incorporates 2 of your creative talents. It is uber- cool.

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  13. The hand knitted cuffs made this post. I'm gonna try that - thank you!

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  14. So very cool! This pattern just jumped to my to do list for this winter!

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  15. This is amazing! You're so creative. I can't believe you just whipped this up. A Pattern Pyramid make - makes my heart swell.

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  16. Love your new jacket, very much my style and it looks good on you

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  17. Yes, über-cool!!! love the hand-knitted cuffs as well. well done

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  18. Fantastic! I love all the details and I´ve always liked militar-like garments, jackets specially, so I´m loving yours!

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  19. You. Are. Unbelievable!

    I nearly spat out my coffee when your photos popped up. What can I say? It's fabulous in so many ways!

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  20. That's just an amazing jacket. I love the combination of fabrics, and it looks really fantastic on you.
    Claudine (couturearts.wordpress.com)

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  21. Gorgeous jacket. I'm really going to have to re-learn how to sew. This is what true style is...having your style vision and making it come to life with your own two hands and your sewing machine.

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  22. LOL, ARE YOU KIDDING ME! It seems like you just received the pattern pyramid patterns and you whipped it up that quickly? (I just choked on my morning coffee) That. is. fantastic. Bravo! It is stunning, and I'm totally impressed that you made something that fabulous from leftover fabrics. Well done.

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  23. I LOVE military inspired jackets & I LOVE that you made this from remnants, no less! It looks totally planned and 100% awesome! Also... so fast too! I'm in awe!

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  24. This is stupendousloy awesome. Looks amazing on you (SO your style) and I love that you used up some scraps to make it. Awesome! I want one!

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  25. Wow, i like your military jacket.
    Have a good time

    Christine

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  26. you are right, uber cool! and I am like the mixed tweed jackets and dresses this year as well. great use of your remnants.

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  27. Impressive, what a great jacket! and so good to use up your remnants.

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  28. This took my breath away. It's absolutely fantastic. Beautiful work. I love those two fabrics paired together. REally stylish.

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  29. Fantastic! How wonderful to make a jacket as good as this from your leftovers. I am impressed.

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  30. This is a really interesting jacket - and beautifully made, as usual.

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  31. Wonderful shapes and textures!

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  32. You certainly succeeded avoiding any boxiness - the shape is great! Really liking the contrasting textures too.

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  33. I love this. You must be on a huge stash busting high over this one!

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  34. That is an awesome jacket. I love the lines of the jacket - you have picked the perfect fabrics to make use of the design.

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  35. Very cool! I love the style of this one-- you totally look like you could be some character in some futuristic movie (and since I'm a big fantasy/sci-fi geek, I mean that in the most complimentary way!) I also love that you were able to find everything you needed on hand!

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  36. This is a really great jacket. You need to visit the US where it is just starting to get cooler, and you could wear it some more.
    I save strips of Ultrasuede from thrift shop bargains and use it to do the inside collar on thick or scratchy collars. I fold over the seam allowance on the wool, and trim the seam allowance off the Ultrasuede, and then top stitch them together. Feels nice and reduces bulk.

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  37. I'm admiring that the jacket has these two tones--it highlights the military quality and yet, where the sleeves hit, is decidely feminine!

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  38. So many great details, I love it!

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  39. That is fantastic! If you want someone to wear it during your summer (my winter) just send it on over to me ;) Also, can you tell me what brand your shoes are? I know it's probably a brand we don't have in the States but I'd like to look up a similar pair. I looked around online a bit but didn't see anything quite like them. I love those shoes.

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  40. This is so cool!! Hope it stays cool enough for you to use it some yet this year.

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  41. What a great jacket. I loves the way you have used different fabrics and knitting. What an amazing seamstress you are.! Mum

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  42. Uber cool? Oh, way more than that! There is so much going on in this jacket, and it all goes together so well. Textures and details galore. I especially like the knitted lower sleeves. Uber, uber cool!

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  43. I love the mix of textures and the design lines of your new jacket.

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  44. This looks amazing! I feel very inspired now. Thanks :)

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  45. This is truly amazing! Not only so beautifully made but such brilliant choices of fabrics, and from leftovers to boot.

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  46. I love how you combined fabrics together. I also love the design: normally I am not a fan of double breasted jackets but you made me change my mind on this one! So inspiring.
    If you don't use it feel free to send it over...I am a size 38 (though much shorter than you)...I can send it back after the winter :o)

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  47. Wow! You've done a very clever recycling! Love the addition of the sleeve cuffs, so original. You are so creative!

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  48. oooh, love, love, love!!!
    super impressive!

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  49. Oh gosh, I am late to comment here- blame it on the return from holiday laundry etc!
    As usual, your clever use of fabrics and styling is inspirational. Another stylish wardrobe piece from scraps!

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  50. Oh gosh, I am late to comment here- blame it on the return from holiday laundry etc!
    As usual, your clever use of fabrics and styling is inspirational. Another stylish wardrobe piece from scraps!

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  51. Wow! wow w o w! I want to be just like you when I grow up.

    I thought I saw you today in Melbourne's Dymocks book store, but told myself no no Carolyn's from Perth. She was your doppelganger :)

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  52. I think "Uber" is an understatement of how cool this is! What a rockin' jacket! I don't think I would ever want to take it off. Such talent!

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  53. Nice! I love the mix of fabrics, I did the same with my robot jacket-all remnants. XD Can't wait to see what the next pyramider makes!

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  54. Your jacket is amazing, and you got it made so you can wear it a few more times too, I'm bad for that when it comes to jackets, I determined to make a coat and get to wear it for at least half of winter this season!

    I love all three combinations for your jacket, it's divine, enjoy!

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  55. Great jacket. The silhouette is spot on. You look very cutting edge.

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  56. Fabulous jacket. I've bought this issue only for this pattern but never made it. But i never thought of making it from different fabrics. Yours is so beautiful and trendy. Thanks for this inspiration. Love it!

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  57. This is straight out of a magazine or the runway Carolyn! Your fabric combo is so chic.

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  59. Wow Carolyn. That is one truly amazing jacket. You look so cool!

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  60. No way!!! That is amazing. I love the effect of the mixed fabrics/textures. And it's perfect for this fall's military trend.

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  61. What makes you such an amazing sewer is your beautiful style. It begins with the pattern choices and continue with amazing fabric selection. I just love the outcome! one of your best projects.

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  62. Looking so beautiful i jacket. Thanks for sharing.
    Hip Length Jacket for Sell
    Thanks.

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