But in the interests of full disclosure... I have been sewing for, ahem, quite a few years :) so I am not a newbie. You may care to
Now I think about it, that was actually my first entirely me-made daily outfit shot... ohmigosh!
But anyhoo, back to the business at hand...
Waterproof pockets for a raincoat.
I feel like these are an effective solution to the problem of how to add fully waterproofed pockets to a garment that is expected to hold up to heavy rain. While we have only had mobile phones, iPods and electronic keyless entry thingys on our car keys for a few years, they are now ubiquitous. And they need to be kept dry.
So, when I was thinking about my new raincoat and its pockets, I aimed to construct the pockets to be as waterproof as possible. This meant, firstly eliminating seams, and secondly, waterproofing any unavoidable seams. Further meaning; patch pockets, together with patched on flaps, and exposed zips; were out.
This pocket eliminates some seams by extending out to the side seams at one side, and into the placket, at the centre front. So all of the pocket pieces are cut the full width of each front of the jacket.
- top edge of pocket lining
- stitching line for flap
- (two lines with a zig-zag between them) zip placement
- foldline for top pocket flap
(and much lower)
- lower edge of pocket lining
- foldline (indicates the lower edge of the finished jacket, below this is the hem allowance)
Press the fold in place. Pin and topstitch in place the two zips at the pressed foldline, remembering to place them to open at opposite ends to each other. At the upper left edge of the top pocket piece can be seen a small piece of folded fabric, stitched inside the seam to cover the metal zip stop and the bottom of the zip... even though you won't be able to see this in the final pocket I still like to have this covered like so...
Cut a full-width piece of fabric, to sew along the top edge of the zip, to form the top outer edge of the pocket itself. This has to be long enough to extend from the "top edge of the pocket lining", down to the upper edge of the zip placement, where the fabric is folded lengthwise and then to have a seam allowance to enable it to be stitched to the top edge of the zip here... Sounds complicated, but hopefully the picture illustrates what I mean OK... Press along the foldline and stitch to the upper edge of the zip. (In the top pocket can be seen that small piece of folded fabric stitched in to completely hide the bottom of the zip (My stitching is a wee bit wonky just there, but I didn't want to un-pick and sew over again because of the permanency of holes in this fabric. And actually, nylon ripstop is a ^&%$#* to press and topstitch neatly. Just saying :) )Now cut a full width piece to form the back lining of the pocket... these should be long enough to extend from the "top edge of the pocket lining" mark to the "lower edge of the pocket lining" mark. Stitch the upper edge of this to the upper edge of the piece on the zip, and the lower edge to the lower shorter edge behind that long front piece, as pictured below...
In the picture above, the lower edge of the left jacket front is folded back to reveal the pocket underneath, and the zip of the right pocket is partly open to reveal the pocket lining underneath. it can be seen that the top edge of the pocket is still unstitched at this stage.
Now for the upper edge of the jacket front; cut a piece to be long enough to come down to the "foldline for top pocket flap" mark , and fold back at this point and extend back up to the "top edge of pocket lining" mark (which is the top edge of the pocket so far). Press along the foldline.
Pin and topstitch along the "stitching line for flap", catching also the upper two edges of the pocket underneath in the same line of stitching. The below picture is a side view of the layers and folds in the pocket.
and below; a view of the completed fronts of the jacket. It can be seen that the pocket flaps, and the pockets underneath, extend the full width of the jacket fronts...
...and also that one single line of stitching appears on the right side of the jacket front. Waterproof this seam by applying seam sealer along the back. I used Seam Grip. Let it cure completely.
When sewing the side seams, include all the layers of the pocket inside the side seam allowances (at right in the photo below). I sewed them as French seams, to improve waterproofing of the jacket, and also later applied Seam Grip to the second stitching.
Keeping the other side edge of the pocket aligned with the front centre edge, stitch the front placket, zip and lining together in one row of stitching. Turn up, press and stitch the lower hem.
Ta da! Waterproof pocket!