Friday, March 30, 2012

Bitumen hued shorts, with French fly

Ta da!
New shorts!
The funny thing about these is that during one of my regular stash sort-throughs, I had picked up this bit of fabric, shaken it out, sized it up, done one of those quick mental assessments (I'm sure you're familiar with that) and designated it as a new pair of Burda 7723 shorts.  That was months ago.  Then distraction had set in  (I'm sure you're all familiar with that too) and I had all but forgotten about it.
It was only until this week, doing the one-week-one-pattern challenge, and I was starting to wonder which Burda 7723 thing I would wear today, which would be the privileged "double-up", so to speak, thus marking it as my favourite, when that potential pair of shorts suddenly popped into my head again.  Of course!  Now was the time.... I made these over the past few days, just in time to be included in the week of Burda 7723's.
The fabric is very lovely, a very soft linen/cotton mix that crinkles up beautifully from Fabulous Fabrics, with a woven-in pinstripe of motley charcoal and ivory giving the fabric a gentle overall hue of variegated warm grey.  The pieces are the leftovers from this dress (which was transformed into a mini later and given to Cassie, giving me some more fabric to play with) and we had bought even more of this fabric later for Cassie to make herself a pair of trousers, so there were some leftovers from that project too.  Just enough for me to squeeze out the pieces for this fantastic pattern.
These shorts are pretty much made straight up to the pattern, except that they have back patch pockets and are flared just slightly.  Also I incorporated a French fly, after reading and giving some thought to the Waves series on the superior finishes often evident in menswear and lacking in womenswear.  Thinking about it made me decide to have a go at working out how to put in a French fly.
I checked out some of Craig's really good suit trousers to get the general idea, and adapted the bare bones of the French fly principle to fit into my own pattern.  I did take some pictures during the process so I can do a tutorial if anyone is interested...?
The French fly performs the same duty as a waist stay.  Actually, it is the very same principle...  I know you cannot see any difference on the outside of the shorts, but I do feel like everything feels beautifully firm and pulled in.  What is more, the front of the shorts does sit a lot better with the French fly in place.  I've always thought the area right above the zip pull (meaning that bit you grab to pull the zip down) is the weak point on a pair of trousers/shorts.  The little bump of that zip pull, and the small empty space above it and just below the waistband, combined with the fact it is sitting right at the junction of zip/waistband where all the wearing strain is, often causes the shorts to bulge or gape a teensy bit at this point.   Having the French fly has pulled the shorts in nice and firmly right underneath that zip pull, taking the strain off at that spot and allowing the flap of the fly to sit down flat in a more relaxed way.




Details:
Shorts; Burda 7723, grey linen/cotton mix
Top; my own design, embroidered and cut-out ivory linen
Camisole (underneath); Country Road
Shorts; Bronx from Zomp shoes

34 comments:

  1. Wow, another amazing post. I have never seen or heard of a french fly. Definitely something worth trying so I would love to see more information on how you constructed it.

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  2. I hope you and WAves have begun a revolution in women's pants closures!

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  3. Beautiful shorts. Love the inside also. I would be interested in seeing how you made the French Fly.

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  4. Another one who hadn't heard of the french fly so please share. Love the shorts, we just didn't get summer here in Sydney to wear shorts too much.

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  6. Beautiful shorts! They look so luxurious in the inside.
    I must try this french fly because most of the times I ignore front zips and put them in the side seam to avoid bulkiness and messiness at the front.
    I´d love a tutorial too.
    María

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  7. I agree. please do a post on the french fly. I can understand why it makes for better and more secure fit. You and Waves make a good point about learning from mens tailoring.

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  8. Such beautiful shorts! It's always fun to have leftovers of fabric and ACTUALLY be able to do something with them! I didn't know this was called a french fly (I like learning new things!) but I've noticed exactly what you said and the front sitting better on some pants I have. I'll have to try this in my next pants project!

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  9. I've never heard of a French Fly before. What a good idea! And you pulled it off so neatly, too. These are very cute shorts. I am feeling kinda jealous that you live somewhere where you can wear shorts!

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  10. This is a brilliant idea - I've never heard of a French Fly before, but I've always disliked this strange, bulky area between zipper and waistband and it didn't even cross my mind there might be a special construction for this.

    I would love a tutorial!

    The shape of the shorts and color of the fabric is really, really nice. Everything is so well put together - such an excellent crafts(wo)men ship. You always outdo yourself!!

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  11. Great finish! I mean besides the french fly, the interior looks so profesional! Beautiful setting for your pic, once again.

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  12. Great shorts.

    The pull on the zip is something that I have wondered about as well. The French fly is clever....off to check out dh's dress pants now!

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  13. That French fly does look very clever - and it looks beautifully done in your shorts. I love them - that fabric is perfect for that pattern. :)

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  14. Love the fabric, but I am always a sucker for linen, the shorts look great and you picked the perfect location for your photo shoot. The weathered wood of the bridge and the colour of your shorts=perfection.

    Another vote for the tutorial! Thanking you in advance. 8-)

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  15. Another lovely pair of shorts! Makes me long for warm weather here in the northern hemisphere...

    Many of DH's trousers have this fly, but I didn't know it had a special name or function. I'd appreciate a tutorial as well.

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  16. love how you're adding little tailoring details to shorts, you always have such fantastic finishing details!

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  17. Oh yes please!!! Share your technique, I'll be grateful, especially now I have in my sewing-dinning table some burda shorts waiting to be sewn.

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  18. Another pair of great shorts. Love the fabric. Interesting, I've never heard of a french fly but I like the way it looks. A tutorial would be wonderful.

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  19. Nice attention to detail. Yes a tutorial on this method would be welcome.

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  20. I LOVE your shoes! Wowowowowow. They look so sweet and graceful but not too precious. Doesn't hurt that you have the legs to pull them off. ;) White flats on me would look like I got chopped off at the knees. :(

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  21. I'd love a tutorial on the fly; especially with summer approaching the US. I'd love to learn this to make some shorts.

    Have you posted about the top before?? It's lovely and I'm dying to see some close ups of it.

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  22. great result on those shorts - I will use that idea on the next fly I make. thanks!

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  23. A true assesment of the fly front. The french fly, in fact all of the waistband construction details are just beaitiful.

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  24. These are lovely! I love the fabric.

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  25. Gosh Caroline I feel really terribe for you regarding the comment on my blog. That is really awful to have received those comments. I suppose they are jealous because you do have a wonderful figure, you are an amazing seamstress and you take the BEST photos of any sewing blog in the WORLD. By the way your new shorts look really wonderful and yes I would be interested in learning more about french flies. Off to look more closely at my husbands work pants. Hugs from Victoria to make up for the abuse you have received.

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  26. Oops sorry. I spelt your name wrong.

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  27. Another pair of great shorts, love the french fly - I'd never heard of it and would definitely be interested in a tutorial (if you have the time!).

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  28. It is close to dinner time here and I keep reading the term as "french fry". Yes, a tutorial on french fries would be lovely! ps:I left you a comment on Janine's blog.

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  29. oh my those are really, really nice!

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  30. The fly is beautiful and the shorts look great! I can never get over your professional looking finishings!

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  31. I love this complete outfit, just beautiful. I don't know the term french fly but it makes sense that this sort of construction would help!

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  32. Carolyn, that is one seriously beautiful outfit you are wearing there! Totally stunning. SO glad you are on for MMMay'12!

    All the best
    Zoe xxx

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  33. Got it, bitumen colour...never heard of a French fly. Very clever.

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