Friday, February 17, 2012
Billowy white shirt
Before; as wide-legged trousers. They were very low-rise in the style of about five years ago. I could literally pull these trousers on and off without undoing the zip. The last time I wore them was about two years ago (in this top right outfit) and even then I had the zip un-zipped and the sides lapped over and hoinked together with a big safety pin so they wouldn't fall down.
so I did not. :)
I have been toying with a particular concept for a shirt-from-pants for a while in my head. I've had a very firm picture of how it was going to go together. Naturally my nebulous "idea" didn't work out quite the way I had planned and I realised at some point that I needed more fabric, and in very different shapes, to what I actually had. I had to pin, stitch, unpick, re-pin, re-stitch, re-unpick over several times before I dared to actually cut into any of the leg pieces... and there was a lot of this before I ended up with a design I was happy with. No, I don't do muslins very often. I consider them a waste of fabric.
The construction... well, don't ask me to go into great detail... it was quite complex. The long extended front bands, starting at the shoulders and extending down the fronts, and continuing around to meet at the centre lower back are from my original shirt plan, the one I had to abandon. I liked how they looked, hanging in space like that, so I left them there. To cover the join at the back, which by necessity in the design finished inside out with the seam showing, I made a little decorative button tab.
The back of the shirt has four corners of fabric joining together at a centre point. I pressed the vertical seam allowances of the upper and lower backs to either side to reduce bulk in the long horizontal back seam joining them. This is double top-stitched down. Actually this shirt contains an eclectic mix of sometimes double top-stitching, sometimes single top-stitching and sometimes no top-stitching. I applied these at whim. It seems to work well with the casual and slightly avant-garde Japanese style of the shirt.
My favourite design detail is the sleeves and their closure. The front sleeve is shorter, and almost a square. The back yoke/sleeve piece has a distinct curve-and-flare in it, tapering off to one side, this was part of the original shape of the leg back pieces, and after lots of pinning the sleeve seams and trying-on multiple times I situated part of the existing curve to fall at the natural outer elbow. It looks very strange when the sleeve is laid flat, but the flare and curve actually accommodates the curve of the elbow very well. It took a bit of experimenting, but I'm so happy with how this bit turned out! It was a very serendipitous discovery!
this shirt. Beautiful buttons, their only downside is that they are not for individual purchase, but only available on cards of nine. Luckily I have a lot of use for little white buttons :)
And I still have my original shirt idea in my head for another time...
Shirt; my own design, re-fashioned from a pair of wide-legged trousers, fine white linen
Shorts; Burda 7723, hot pink linen, details here, and to see these in 6 different ways go here. My review of this pattern here