Sunday, November 20, 2011

Ginger shot cotton shirt

Dad had a special birthday recently, and I made a shirt for him!  Photographed here in his natural habitat...
I used shot cotton in Ginger, which has a bright-ish ruby-red warp and an intensely curry-yellow weft; two colours which combine to make this wonderfully intense bronze-orange colour; perfect for my Dad's olive skin and dark brown hair.  I think he looks great in this colour!
And the fabric... well, can I just diverge into a rave for a tick?    Ohmigosh!  but this shot cotton is such a dream to work with...truly, every seamster needs at least one shot cotton shirt in their sewing career, just for the sheer pleasure of cutting, pinning together and sewing this stuff!  I've made a couple of shirts of this fabric for Craig, here and here, and myself things from the leftovers, and I cannot get over how absolutely fab is this fabric.  Seriously, sewing induced bliss or what, wow...  (calms oneself)
Now, back to business...
There were some slightly nerve-racking fitting issues; since this was to be a surprise birthday prezzie I couldn't actually measure up the birthday boy himself without giving it away, so Mum had given me some measurements over the phone.  But I was still pretty nervous when it came time to take the scissors to this luscious fabric... and then Mum and Dad came up for a very fortuitously timed stay, and one time they were out I slyly tip-toed into the bedroom and feeling like a rather sneaky and devious sewing-sleuth, measured up all the dimensions of one of Dad's shirts and jotted them down (maniacal laugh as I zoom out and back to the sewing room, tape measure a-flying...).  And luckily the fit is spot-on and Dad reckons it's pretty comfy and stylish!
I used Burda 7767 again, (might have to start compiling yet another Rogue's gallery for this pattern soon...) with a few adjustments; namely, added two breast pockets with curved lower edges and curve-edged pocket flaps, shaped the lower hemline in a shirtwaist curve, shortened the sleeves, and added a nice V-detail at the centre of the sleeve hems with a decorative button at the apex of the V, for which I wrote a tutorial here.  
I flat-felled the armhole seam allowances, but I don't know if I would do this again.  Y'know, how sometimes you are so busy making the insides look perfect you start to forget that it is the appearance on the outside that is actually of paramount importance, yeah?  My flat-felled seams do look pretty good (if I say so myself) but it was a fiddly process and topstitching from the inside impacted on the neatness on the outside.  I wasn't as happy as if I had just overlocked the armhole seam allowance, pinned them down and topstitched them down from the outside, like I usually do...
I debated about using either of the ruby-red or the curry-yellow colours for topstitching; I usually like some sort of contrasting colour, or at least something that stands out somehow, but I ended up going with a burnt orange that sorta matches the overall hue of the fabric.  And with little matte chocolate brown buttons.  And btw, those buttonholes on the collar are intentionally left uncut, since they are purely decorative and you are not supposed to do up those buttons on a casual shirt; I think they look neater that way.
Isn't he a handsome bloke?


Details:
Shirt; Burda7767 with modifications, shot cotton

26 comments:

  1. Gorgeous! What a nice thing to do for your dad and I giggled at the image of you stealth measuring one of his shirts. So... where does one buy shot cotton? Does it go by another name? I've never heard of it or seen it.

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  2. shams; thanks! I bought the shot cotton from purlsoho, and there is a link to the store up where I mentioned the fabric in this post...

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  3. Oh its a lovely fabric, a really fabulous shirt and a great fit. I must admit to never having made my dad a shirt, though I've bought him a few.

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  4. Happy bday to your dad and how sweet of you! Looks so perfect like you've done just men shirts all your life! An expert at everything you do;)

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  5. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! I love the fabric but I'm not sure I've ever seen it in a fabric store. I've had trouble commenting; maybe this time?

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  6. Now I know where you took your looks! Your Dad is quite handsome! The shirt is just perfect and I love its warm colour!
    Nice work as always, Carolyn!
    bisoudisou

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  7. It looks very professional! Your dad must have loved getting a present made by you.

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  8. What a lovely pressie for your Dad! And that colour not only suits him so well but looks mighty delish with jeans.
    Nice firewood, too (bit drooly over any firewood, cos I live with a four oven Rayburn that my sister brought me from Tassie for a house-warming present when I bought this lovely place which is for cooking and hot water in winter, AND a Ned Kelly for heating. So I use a lot of wood. But my electricity bills are negligible...).
    Hugs, PS there are photos on my blog of that amazing house-warming present!!

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  9. That shirt is gorgeous, and it's great to see the menswear that you post, since it's relatively rare in the blogging world! I was at the fabric store the other day and they had shot silk exactly like this (but at $25/meter, I had to resist).

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  10. What impeccable details! I always pet and sigh over the shot cotton at the fabric shop but haven't purchased any yet. I think I've got to pick some up soon...

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  11. This shirt is so beautiful. The stitching is perfect. I always enjoy seeing your beautifully made clothes.

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  12. Great shirt, love that type of fabric with the 2 color warp and weft combining into another color.
    But my favorite in this post is your description of your dad photographed "in his natural habitat" big laugh and total recognition of this phenomenon. thanks :)

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  13. This is excellent-lucky Dad. I have some of that shot cotton, in that color, waiting for an apron. I just read "Shirtmaking" by David Page Coffin and picked up so many tips to help me with men's shirts. Your work is wonderful!!

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  14. A very handsome shirt. Happy birthday Carolyn's Dad!

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  15. Very smart. He looks very happy with it. It's always such a pleasure to work with his fabric.

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  16. I've never heard of shot cotton either. I'll definitely be on the lookout for it. I love the shirt, too. You always make me feel guilty about making clothes for my husband. The only things I've made for him are Renaissance costumes.

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  17. Yeah...its another awesome project!! The color is great on your dad, and I think it's fantastic he will wear such a bright color. I cannot get my husband out of black...oh except for a dark navy blue,,lol.

    Beautiful work as usual

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  18. You did an amazing job making this shirt and it looks perect on him. What a nice present!

    Is shot cotton something like linen? It sort of has that look.

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  19. hi ho, hi ho, it's off to purlsoho I go... Gorgeous shirt, great work on the details too. It looks truly RTW :)

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  20. Thank you ladies! and Dad will be happy to read your birthday wishes here...
    Ann; cotton is from the cotton plant whereas linen is from flax, and the term "shot" means the warp and weft are of different colours, as pictured above. Shot fabrics are by nature shimmery and ever-changing in their colour, depending on the angle it is viewed...

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  21. What a lucky Dad! It's a beautiful shirt and great color. I have seen you mention shot cotton before, but don't see it around much. Must search for it!

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  22. Dear Carolyn, I have just bought some shot cotton . I WAS on a fabric diet. I do not want to mention any names here, but some people should stay away from your blog whilst on a fabric diet and in a sewing deprived state.

    Your Dad's shirt looks terrific, and I love the shot of him in his natural environment. The colours of the fabric look terrific on him - and your photo of the fabric is much better than purl soho's, the different colours show up so nicely.

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  23. Thanks again Carolyn for a fabulous present. We were sorry you couldn't stay for my party we had a great time and my shirt was much admired with the meticulous detail pored over by many of the ladies. Congratulations on your work.
    Love Dad

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  24. Happy birthday Carolyn's Dad. That's such a great shirt. I just love the fabric and the way it's turned out so brilliantly.

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  26. I agree great colour choice and he looked dashing in it at the party. Your mum organised a fantastic spread. It was lovely meeting all your Dad's friends. I did miss your presence but I am looking forward to catching up on christmas day. Love Sandi

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