Saturday, June 11, 2011

Pattern Magic 2; the Vanishing Scarf

I've made my first project from Pattern Magic 2, by Tomoko Nakamichi; the vanishing scarf top.  Looking through this wonderful book I really couldn't decide which project to make first.  I'm not just saying that.  I really couldn't decide; so I got Craig to choose one for me.  He chose this one.  Obviously, hehe.   If you're interested, the dressmaking details are below...



Details:
Shirt; drafted from Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi, of polyester stuff I dyed myself with iDye for synthetics in Brown, done here
Skirt; Vogue 7303, lined, in bottle green cotton velveteen, details here
Tights; Metalicus
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

scarf "under" at left, and "over" at right

The patterns in Pattern Magic 2 really are concepts, rather than lead-you-by-the-nose patterns, meaning there are no specific directions for finishing off these garments, or even how to make them so one can even wear them.  These sorts of details are up to the seamstress/seamster; this is why I really feel these books are aimed at the advanced seamstress.  Or seamster; whatever.  You guys know that when I use the term "seamstress" I referring to all of us peops, male or female, handy with a needle, right?  I just use that term because I would never apply the term "sewer" to myself; eeewwwww!  and "dressmaker", while very gender acceptable, implies that one is only making dresses.  So I kind of like "seamstress", when applied to myself.  But I digress...
This shirt as presented in the book had a few clues as to how the designer intended for the garment to be finished, including a central back zip, to be opening from the lower hem, up; and for a narrow front edge band to finish off those top front edges.  Both of which I incorporated, but I would do it differently next time around.  
For a start, I would recommend drafting a wide front edge facing which folds around the front edge including the neckline opening and enclosing the collar seam allowances, and attaching at the shoulder seam.  I think this would make for a cleaner finishing look.  See in the collar close-up below how you can see the inside edge of that narrow right front edge band?  I don't really like seeing that, and wish it was wider, and therefore invisible from view.  I would have done this if I had more fabric to play with... but with the scarf in place it isn't really too obvious when you are wearing it.
Plus, if I was making this again, I wouldn't have the central back zip, as funky a feature as this is.  Instead I would have the shirt open at the front and incorporate a hidden button band for closure at the front.  These are just my personal preferences for finishing off this shirt, and not a criticism of the design at all, which I love.  I looove how the vanishing scarf looks; how it is part of the shirt at the front and worn tucked around one's neck to disappear back into the shirt.  LOVE it!
I used the fabric that was an unloved remnant from my friend C, that used to be pale pistachio green and which I dyed using iDye for Synthetics in Brown, here.  My fabric was limited, so I used strips of bias-cut black cotton for an interfaced lower edge facing.  It is understitched and invisibly slip-stitched to the garment.
Because my shirt is unlined, and because I sometimes find the bottom edges of invisible zips to be quite irritating when against the skin, I hand-sewed on a little square of lining fabric to cover up the lower (upper?) edge of the teeth.
I also added sleeves to my design; well with a scarf as part of the shirt I figured it to be more of a winter-y garment, therefore sleeves would be more the go than a sleeveless thing.  My sleeves are quite plain, and for a little military/trench coat touch I added tabs with large tortoise-shell buttons.  Well, tortoiseshell; they're actually plastic, but I'm using the term "tortoise-shell" as a description of their colour.  I do not advocate depriving a tortoise of its shell in order to provide me with a button, no sirreee.
So, waddya think?


oh oh oh, you may be thinking I've forgotten about my son's birthday sewing, but I haven't!  It was actually finished, and wrapped up and presented to him.  Then I thought of a few little improvements, which are now in the works.  So when I've finished finished, I'll get him to model it in its really finished state for this ol' blog here.

32 comments:

  1. Your shirt looks great! GREAT, I'm telling you! Can't wait to see what design of the books you tackle next.

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  2. That is a seriously cool top! I have these books but have never seriously considered sewing from them. :)

    (And I use the term, sewist, which I prefer to seamstress/seamster.)

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  3. Yah, I don't really like the term "sewist" either. Just seems like one of those strange made-up words. Of course people can refer to themselves any way they please. My preferred term for myself is "seamstress" :)

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  4. So the elements I like you are not to big on- the zip looks great but I understand the irritating nature of them. Thanks for the tips as I am yet to make this one. Great job and I am totally with you on the tortoise shell- like having ivory really-not in this day and age.

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  5. This is excellent! i love what your wearing with it to.

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  6. Nice outfit - I like how you work the colours!
    It is interesting the name thing - I use sewer, but it is pronounced so-er, not like the drainage version soo-er - big difference!

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  7. Cool and interesting blouse. My Pattern Magic 1 arrived this week and I'm in love! It sings to my heart. I have already ordered #2.

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  8. Really like your top. Every time you make something from your Japanese pattern books, I consider buying a copy for myself!

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  9. The invisible scarf is the coolest thing ever! Cant wait to see what else you sew from the book. And I love how you paired it with the blue and green.
    OH and I was at the op shop today and found that Vogue skirt pattern, recognised it from your posts and thought I'd try it (one day) too! :)

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  10. Your top is unreal. I covet that book and your amazing skills to go with it.
    I am glad you are a fellow seamstress. I like this word. It has history, which I do not find less significant because it is traditionally a feminine term.

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  11. What amazing construction. Cute top too.

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  12. You have done spectacular work! That shirt is amazing.
    You are an amazing seamstress.

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  13. It looks fantastic. I have always loved this design. So glad someone made it up.

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  14. Wonderful top! I'm really enjoying seeing you make up (and add to) these designs.

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  15. So COOL! I really want to try this, the second book looks like it has more designs that interest me. Is the second book supposed to be harder than the first or just an addition? I'm mostly scared about the drafting, which I've never done.

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  16. That's really breathtaking! I especially love the upside down back zip. Someone just gifted me some ultrasuede, and reading this post has my mind whirring.

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  17. I bought Pattern Magic 1 and 2 in Japanese, but never made anything from them. I just bought them in English and we will see if that helps me sew from them.

    The problem is that I started collecting Japanese crafting books when I had a neighbor/friend from Honolulu, who could knit and sew and speak Japanese. She has moved back to Honolulu.

    Have you seen the Pattern Magic 3 for knits?

    I don't like sewer, sewist or seamstress. I just say that I make stuff. That applies to software and experiments, at home at work. Some whippersnappers at work just call themselves makers. I heard an older artist call himself that, too. So, lately, I've tried calling myself a maker. Does that sound pretentious?

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  18. Fantastic top, I MUST get these books.
    Like your zipper tip - I do that too at the bottom of zippers, using grosgrain ribbon.
    and seamstress, that it what I am.

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  19. Oh, fun!! I liked that one when you (or Shannon? or someone?) talked about the book. I don't think I'll ever be that advanced, but those garments are so interesting!!

    I love the color of your skirt. I'm thinking dark, rich greens are vastly under-represented in my closet. As well as some other colors I've recently come to love more ...

    Goose's shirt ... normally I would get rid of the logo, but it just says "Texas A&M Dallas" and I wanted it to be obvious that it was a mini-daddy shirt and not just a random maroon polo .... so then it really did look like a mini work shirt. Kevin really enjoyed the trip down memory lane with that post too.

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  20. words fail me for the sheer gorgeousness of this blouse. that's all.

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  21. oh.wow.

    That top is just amazing. Since you love the book so much, I am hoping you will sew more from it? I find it intimidating and intriguing.

    I like seamstress, dressmaker and stitcher as possible monikers. Seamster sounds cool, for a dude, of course.

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  22. Ooh, interesting top. Nice work on dying the fabic too. Great colour.

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  23. Looks lovely; you make all these Pattern Magic pieces seem so effortless, both to make and wear.

    (And maybe this makes me a whippersnapper, but I use maker. At least in the US it connotes someone who is part of the bigger back-to-
    diy trend, and I like that).

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  24. Very impressive Carolyn. Great job interpreting the design element into a whole blouse. Great color too!

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  25. That's a very cool top! I love the interesting design details you put in. :)

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  26. It is so impressive that you figured out how to complete this garment. It is really an amazing piece.

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  27. Wow how cool is that! I cannot believe you figured out how to do something so complicated. Heck it LOOKS hard to do and we all know it's always 10x harder to actually do it so I'm definitely impressed. (As I am with everything you do.)

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  28. i love this top and i agree with your changes and suggestions in particular the removal of the zip to have the top open like a wrap top. It wouldn't look un-natural and also you would be able to put the top on and off without need to have supper flexible shoulders!

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  29. This is a really cool looking top. I like your adjustments and excellent suggestions. I just got a copy of Pattern Magic 2 and asked folks if they had made anything from this book. Sewbusylizzy mentioned that you had. I don't know if I have the skills to figure out how to make something from the book. But maybe if I start with something simple it'll work out. Meanwhile I'll check out your other posts on Pattern Magic. Nice to know someone's had success making things from this series!

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