Monday, April 11, 2011

Vogue 8333, a wearable muslin

I have finally finished my muslin of Vogue 8333, a bit late for the RTW jacket sew-along, but meh.  It's done.  I will wear this thing.  I like it with the sleeves folded up like this, and I like the oversized nacre buttons I found for it.  I think it will be even better after a few more washes, to nicely wrinkle it up and settle in those seams, and I am toying vaguely with the idea of dyeing it... what do you think?
Something I've noticed, and you can see it in the picture, the right side lapel has a slight tendency to sit up higher than its roll line, in spite of  (or because of?) the hand-stitched bridles within.  Do you think I should I be worried about this?

I really wanted to make this muslin wearable since wasting fabric, even calico, goes against like just about everything to do with consumerism and using planetary resources that I believe in.  It is finished (sorta ridiculously) to couture standards...  well, I needed to have a go at all the couture techniques that are introduced in this wonderful pattern...
With a few exceptions; I forgo-ed pad-stitching the collar (I figured I'd already practised that one sufficiently pad-stitching the lapels) and just whacked in some iron-on interfacing.  No one will notice that.  I've learnt the thing about couture... done properly, no one should be able to tell couture apart from RTW, without taking the whole thing apart.  
Couture is in the inner details.  
The only reason one might notice a difference between the two at a casual glance is of course if one's hand-stitching is so badly uneven that it stands out on the outer like a sore thumb... but I pride myself on having pretty good hand-stitching if I say so myself.  Another couture exception in this garment is that I machine-stitched the buttonholes.  Will save the hand-finished buttonholes, with properly waxed and pressed silk thread as specified, for the real deal.  Finally, this garment is not underlined, unlike my "real" jacket will be.
Irene warned me that the torso of this pattern ran narrow, and I did check this carefully during the bodice construction bit.  But I am kind of narrow in the torso already, and actually found it to fit me fine.  I might shave a teensy bit off the bust curves but I don't think very much.  One part I had to drastically adjust was the sleeve cap... here is the jacket with the sleeves as per the pattern set in.
See how horribly poof-y and gathered at the top they are?  Even my youngest son, who is remarkably uninterested in details, and clothing details especially, noticed and kindly pointed it out to me unbidden, in case I hadn't noticed the hideousness myself already (I had).
I then reduced the height of the sleeve cap by a good 1.5cm in my muslin (as in top photo).  A bit better, no?
However will I need to adjust this detail in my wool/silk jacket? possibly not, since wool has shrink-ability going for it allowing one to shrink the sleeve cap into the armscye, whereas of course calico has absolutely zero shrink-ability.  Leading naturally to one of my pet peeves with the whole muslin charade in the first place, the difference in material properties; also titled "why the only useful muslin is one made in the exact same fabric as your garment" rant that I am not going to go into here, wishing to spare everyone a massive post.


Details:
Jacket; Vogue 8333, calico
Camisole (under, barely seen); Country Road
Skirt; skirt "m" from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuko Hiraiwa, linen/cotton mix, details here
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes (will be so depressed when these die...)

16 comments:

  1. I agree with you on the muslin bit, I try to avoid it when possible, too. Seems so wasteful if it´s not wearable.

    Your jacket looks great, I´m running behind on the sew-along too, as I have encountered some facing issues.

    Good luck with the "real deal"!

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  2. It is a nice fit through the torso on you. I wonder if lowering the break point will make the lapel sit flatter? Can't wait to see your real fabric!

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  3. Lovely blazer! I really like how the front part rounds into the hem...

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  4. It may just be calico, but it looks really comfortable and cool.

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  5. Looks great! Not only did you "try out" the pattern - you'll have 2 jackets for your troubles.

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  6. That looks great! I love it when I can wear a muslin. I would leave it white for the summer and maybe dye it in the fall. It is a beautiful jacket and fits you so well. I didn't notice the collar until you pointed it out so you should be fine leaving it, although that can be one of those things that drives a seamstress nuts once she notices it. I also hate the whole muslin out of a different fabric thing, you can rant about that any day.

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  7. If you are late on the RTW jacket sewalong, then, I'm extra-super-late, I haven't traced out my pattern yet, so I still have that to do, and a muslin to make (I hate doing these, but my last jacket was a disaster, so it might be worth the effort), and then I'll start following Sherry's instructions.

    I love your jacket, the fit is great!

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  8. Without doubt, I have to learn to make a muslin before each piece, you encouraged me to do this, make the necessary changes before the real fabric is nice. How good you are taking advantage of the jacket as well.

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  9. "why the only useful muslin is one made in the exact same fabric as your garment" rant

    It's one of my rants as well. At the price of patterns, I never purchase intending to make only one version. I make standard pattern alterations and then allow my prototype to tell me if there are any major changes still needed. But like you, I know that I need to make allowance for the next fabric. Much as I disklike it, basting is my best friend.

    I like your first version of this pattern. It has a casualness, a comfortableness (?sp?) that is not usually portrayed.

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  10. um, yeah. I don't ever do muslins. I just make the item out of something not tooo expensive first so that if I need to make further modifications I can save the more expensive stuff for an iteration down the road.I feel like any pattern I do several times is an iterative process, a tweak here, a tweak there ...

    Yeah, and the muslin should be the same as the desired fabric - I thought about this with my Jalie fabric, there is no such thing as swimwear muslin ... so I figured the first version would be wearable and I would tweak later as needed. As it turned out, each of the four iterations was different.

    I like the folded up cuffs, especially for the warmer time of year. Yesterday I was wishing I had a black blazer that I could fold the sleeves up, but mine are lined with no cuffs - it would have been nice for the warmer weather we are having.

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  11. I don't make muslins on most things. If I do I try to make it as wearable as possible;however,I am making a real muslin for my next dress. I think the pattern needs major shortening and I'd like to test the fit.

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  12. Blog hopping here! Re the break point - lowering it slightly (?1cm) and therefore setting the roll line in slightly more right around (?3-5mm) might help the collar and lapel sit flatter. It will be hard to see the effect though with the padstitching already in place, and I am sure you don't feel like unpicking that! Also, it might just be doing this on the calico, your real fabric will undoubtedly behave better! But it is something to keep in mind if you have the same problem later on.

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  13. I like the cuffs on this jacket and wonder what color you will dye it eventually.

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  14. So did you not need to make any adjustments to the torso of the pattern? (I hope this isn't a rude question, I'm making the same pattern and struggling with fit issues). I fall exactly on the measurements for the pattern size that I cut out, but when worn I feel like there's way too much ease. Did you find that the torso ran narrow or cut a different pattern than the envelope would have had you cut for your measurements?

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  15. Eileen- thanks for your comment! My measurements correspond just about exactly to those on the pattern envelope and I did not need to make any adjustments to the fit of the torso in this pattern. I think it fits quite comfortably but snugly, however I like this in a jacket and I think the design is meant to fit closely to the body. If you have too much ease you may need to shave a touch off some of those seams.

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