I have finally finished my muslin of Vogue 8333, a bit late for the RTW jacket sew-along, but meh. It's done. I will wear this thing. I like it with the sleeves folded up like this, and I like the oversized nacre buttons I found for it. I think it will be even better after a few more washes, to nicely wrinkle it up and settle in those seams, and I am toying vaguely with the idea of dyeing it... what do you think?
Something I've noticed, and you can see it in the picture, the right side lapel has a slight tendency to sit up higher than its roll line, in spite of (or because of?) the hand-stitched bridles within. Do you think I should I be worried about this?
I really wanted to make this muslin wearable since wasting fabric, even calico, goes against like just about everything to do with consumerism and using planetary resources that I believe in. It is finished (sorta ridiculously) to couture standards... well, I needed to have a go at all the couture techniques that are introduced in this wonderful pattern...
With a few exceptions; I forgo-ed pad-stitching the collar (I figured I'd already practised that one sufficiently pad-stitching the lapels) and just whacked in some iron-on interfacing. No one will notice that. I've learnt the thing about couture... done properly, no one should be able to tell couture apart from RTW, without taking the whole thing apart.
Couture is in the inner details.
The only reason one might notice a difference between the two at a casual glance is of course if one's hand-stitching is so badly uneven that it stands out on the outer like a sore thumb... but I pride myself on having pretty good hand-stitching if I say so myself. Another couture exception in this garment is that I machine-stitched the buttonholes. Will save the hand-finished buttonholes, with properly waxed and pressed silk thread as specified, for the real deal. Finally, this garment is not underlined, unlike my "real" jacket will be.
Irene warned me that the torso of this pattern ran narrow, and I did check this carefully during the bodice construction bit. But I am kind of narrow in the torso already, and actually found it to fit me fine. I might shave a teensy bit off the bust curves but I don't think very much. One part I had to drastically adjust was the sleeve cap... here is the jacket with the sleeves as per the pattern set in.
See how horribly poof-y and gathered at the top they are? Even my youngest son, who is remarkably uninterested in details, and clothing details especially, noticed and kindly pointed it out to me unbidden, in case I hadn't noticed the hideousness myself already (I had).
I then reduced the height of the sleeve cap by a good 1.5cm in my muslin (as in top photo). A bit better, no?
However will I need to adjust this detail in my wool/silk jacket? possibly not, since wool has shrink-ability going for it allowing one to shrink the sleeve cap into the armscye, whereas of course calico has absolutely zero shrink-ability. Leading naturally to one of my pet peeves with the whole muslin charade in the first place, the difference in material properties; also titled "why the only useful muslin is one made in the exact same fabric as your garment" rant that I am not going to go into here, wishing to spare everyone a massive post.
Jacket; Vogue 8333, calico
Camisole (under, barely seen); Country Road
Skirt; skirt "m" from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuko Hiraiwa, linen/cotton mix, details here
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes (will be so depressed when these die...)