My bottle green basic skirt has had an update! Well, not one you'd see, but one that will make it tons more wearable in my winter repertoire; I've added a lining.
The first few times I wore this in autumn I wore it on its own (see left) and all was hunky-dory. Then as the weather turned brisker I started donning tights to keep the pegs warm and an immediate problem reared its ugly head... barely half a day had gone by before the skirt sticking to my textured tights as I walked and riding up in a most unladylike fashion became an issue... something had to be done and fast before I could decently wear this thing out in public again!! So the next time I visited my favourite fabric shop I bought 70cm bemsilk lining in emerald green.
The pattern I used for this skirt Vogue 7303 is ordinarily an unlined skirt with an internal waistline facing and a centre back zip, which is how I made it up for this skirt (this pattern has been used a multitude of ways as followers may have noticed!).
So to line it, this is what I did... I cut out a front (on the fold) and two backs (laid on the selvedge to get a ready-made finished edge for those centre back edges) from the lining fabric (here the skirt is inside out to show the turquoise facing band, this is invisible when the skirt is right way out);
I made up the lining skirt identical to the pattern, leaving the centre back seam un-sewn, and serged the side seams to finish;
Then the precision measuring bit (not being facetious here, it is pretty important to get these measurements as spot on as possible for a good fit). I laid the lining skirt onto the finished skirt, so the seam allowance (1.5cm) is overhanging the top of the skirt. In the picture the red pin is marking a point 1.5cm (5/8") above the bottom edge of the facing, this will be the stitching line where your lining will be joined onto the facing of the skirt. The yellow pin is marking a spot 1.5cm (5/8") above this point; this will be the cutting line for where you can cut away the top of the lining skirt. Mark both of these lines on your lining skirt all the way around with pins or tailors chalk. Carefully cut along the cutting line (yellow pin line) around the top of the lining skirt.
Unpick where you've previously joined the facing to the zip tape, and with right sides together and using a seam allowance of 1.5cm (5/8"), sew the lining skirt at the stitching line (red pin line) to the facing. Serge to finish and press down. Now sew the centre back seam of the lining skirt to finish at the base of your zip, iron down the seam allowances of the lining and pin to the zip tape. Hand stitch lining to your zip tape...
Cut away the lining level with the base of the skirt...
Fold up 1cm, then 1cm again, press, pin and stitch as normal for a lining.
Finished! Now I can wear my skirt with tights and no more constant re-arranging of the skirt to hang properly.