These are the Ginger jeans designed by Heather of Closet Case Patterns, and named after Sonya of Ginger makes, and I was so happy that Heather asked me to test the pattern. Thanks so much for asking me, Heather! I LOVE trying out new patterns!
The pattern has two views, I have made view A, a mid-rise bootleg design. View B is a high-rise skinny leg.
I used a stretchy cotton denim from KnitWit in a very deep blue-black wash, and the topstitching is in ivory/cream-coloured Gutermann's upholstery thread. The jeans zip, the copper coloured snaps for closure, and the copper coloured rivets are all from KnitWit too.
The pattern is a classic five pocket jeans pattern; and I know Heather has worked very hard to perfect a really good starting-point fit. Although obviously; everyone, everywhere has completely different bodies, meaning fit is a very personal and individual thing that cannot be easily standardised; so it's terrific that Heather has included in the pattern instructions some very helpful suggestions for trouble-shooting the fitting process. I learnt several new things! I did make some adjustments to custom-fit mine to myself, taking in the crotch and side seams, a pinch-in adjustment of the CB seam for a slight swayback.
Just as a comparison, these are pretty much the same adjustments that I generally make for my old tried-and-true jeans pattern, Burda 7863.
Also, at the cutting out stage I added 7.5cm (3") to the leg length, just in case. Lengthening the legs is another always adjustment for me; partly a shrinkage insurance policy, and partly in case I fancy wearing a high heel with my jeans and partly because when I'm crouching down or sitting with my knees crossed I prefer for my ankles to stay covered and warm and out of the wind. I'm of the school of thought that you can always cut it away but you can never add it on afterwards! And I was glad I did add that little bit of length since I think the legs would have been just a smudge short otherwise.
I also like my waistbands to be firm and stable and secure, holding everything in ie. not stretchy! so instead of on grain I cut the waistband on the cross, where the fabric had zero stretch. My waistband is interfaced, and the waistband lining and pocket bags are cut from a charcoal/white pinstriped fine-grade linen, the leftovers from Tim's business shirt that I made for him last year
Speaking of learning things... I've put in loads of fly fronts in my time, so sometimes I'm tempted to ignore pattern instructions and just potter along blithely in my own merry way. But when I'm testing a pattern I follow the instructions given. Because you're testing and later reviewing the pattern and its instructions, duh. And hey, you might learn new stuff. I sure did... the Ginger jeans fly front method is dare I say it? foolproof... Detailed to a fault, meticulously outlined, and it works like an absolute charm!! I think my new jeans have the best damn fly front I've ever done, ever. And it went together so easily.
I'm so impressed with those fly front instructions I've printed that bit out and stuck them to the wall behind my sewing machine. Have I ever done that with a technique before...? Precisely never.
These instructions are that good.
Thank you so much for another excellent pattern, Heather!
Jeans; Ginger jeans by Closet Case patterns, navy/black stretch cotton denim
Top; Burda magazine 04/2014, 111, creamy bobbly stretch stuff, details here
Sandals; c/o Misano